First of all the designer wisely streamlined his presentation with one model, pulling together weekend ease and that-cool-guy-at-the-office looks not just with the one boy but also with consistent, delicious themes: narrow trouser, muted palette, fabulous dress shoes throughout and, when the moment strikes, a cute jacket with some give in the shoulder. Thin is in, but the best designers are making stuff that work for those with carriage.
Look at those sweaters! Is that camel? Chenille? Just because some comfortable fabrics are “feminine” should no longer exclude them menswear. And another example how having some additional room to breathe can look interesting.
A bit of volume in the hip is super chic now, and makes me think of those pajamas everyone was showing, but this seems more right. Pilati worked with dark tweeds and also patchwork blues that looked like mismatch denim, but still everything had a sophistication that Armani’s from-the-bed lacked. YSL’s look looks nicer: a jodhpur reinvented! Can it be that simple?
After that amazing Prada coat, my favorite outwear from the shows is this deconstruced trench. Fuck the mid thigh! Take mine to the knees!
Sports jacket of the season? Suit of the year? It’s fabulous, it’s electric but not garish, it hugs and shines and snugs! Wrap me in YSL any day!