Here is the cover of the new American Vogue:
That sloppy top you see on Rachel Weisz is Rodarte; the actress does her best not to fall apart in tears as her blouse apparently is in jewel-toned threads. The coup of this cover comes after a coolly-received Spring collection that won positive reviews from their usual fans and shaken heads from everyone else.
Rodarte has problems reconciling their idea of a romantic design into a consistent aesthetic that will keep us interested season after season. For example take a look at these two shoes; one from Fall and the other from this Spring:
The Mulleavy gals' idea of pretty and punk from Fall (top) showed up mildly re-made for Spring (bottom). Innovation? Imagination? These are both tough black strap-ups with cut-out tights (only in jet black or cream), and seeing it again is boring. They're riding on concepts and riffing on trends from over a year ago.
Look at these handy collages from two past collections:
Twists of fabric, shiny pantsuits, deep hues and romantic and dramatic gowns: Rodarte has plenty to work with here. But the only real difference between seasons is the change of set, a shame considering their war chest of ideas. Can Rodarte turn it up and all around for next season, or will the Rodarte girl always wear Grecian pieces and spiked heels?