Here is the cover of the new American Vogue:
That sloppy top you see on Rachel Weisz is Rodarte; the actress does her best not to fall apart in tears as her blouse apparently is in jewel-toned threads. The coup of this cover comes after a coolly-received Spring collection that won positive reviews from their usual fans and shaken heads from everyone else.
Rodarte has problems reconciling their idea of a romantic design into a consistent aesthetic that will keep us interested season after season. For example take a look at these two shoes; one from Fall and the other from this Spring:
The Mulleavy gals' idea of pretty and punk from Fall (top) showed up mildly re-made for Spring (bottom). Innovation? Imagination? These are both tough black strap-ups with cut-out tights (only in jet black or cream), and seeing it again is boring. They're riding on concepts and riffing on trends from over a year ago.
Look at these handy collages from two past collections:
Twists of fabric, shiny pantsuits, deep hues and romantic and dramatic gowns: Rodarte has plenty to work with here. But the only real difference between seasons is the change of set, a shame considering their war chest of ideas. Can Rodarte turn it up and all around for next season, or will the Rodarte girl always wear Grecian pieces and spiked heels?
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
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