First off, Tracey Reese decided to be cute and literal -- and not to reinterpret the Milanese lace or color palette. A lot of the dresses went to the knee, swished a bit and looked sloppy. Albeit flirty, there was no fun to it all and nothing joyous. Reese would do well to discover the ironic madcap in fashion that Miuccia knows so well.
Anna Sui kept things upbeat and serene in her historically girly and shiny way, but mixed things up a bit with some Milan homages. The shots of black with the lace and appliques from Sui felt unexpected for Spring, and who doesn't like surprises? Her reinvented Boho in black is modern.
Marchesa is classic and columns are forever, if uninventive. The dress on the left references Prada and also Alexander McQueen with the designers' use of direction and tulle overlay-on-nude. These are go-to red carpet looks for the starlet not ready for Miuccia's best.
Some of the most overt references came surprisingly from the Dominican King himself, Mr. De La Renta, who strayed from his usual color palette in a few dramatic moments. His dresses went up to the neck, down to the floor, and across the body in a weighty Victorian way. He suggested nudity. It was sensual. Society women need his floor-length ball gowns like we need a nap right now apres-Fashion Week parities, and in black the designer suggests a beauty in darkness. It felt less Park Avenue this season and customers will love...
...especially with this heel by Oscar that shows the flirtiness of a little peek-a-boo. Where else have last season's Europe trends showed up this season in New York?
1 comment:
oh, armed and akimbo, i love your style posts.
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