Vogue Akimbo // Again

Ponder yet another cover of Sienna Miller as American Vogue continues its sink into fashion editorial obscurity. Find what's new, cool, or interesting about this:

If you're going to cast an actress, cast one with an interesting upcoming movie. If you want movement, do better than a swinging ponytail. If you want large jewelry, pick a rock that really makes a statement. Otherwise it's just yet another primary color mess.

Back In The Habit Akimbo // Thankfully Not Wizard Clothing

Words currently fail us here at the Loft in describing Our Father Karl Lagerfeld's editorial of Emma Watson for Crash Magazine. So take a look at AnA's preview from The Daily Mail.

Girl is dressed as a NUN! A pale-faced nun in Alexander McQueen speaks to us. Nay, it PRAYETH to us and giveth us hope. As do these pages:

Emma conjures up some of the most EPIC celebrity hunches in recent memory. This tulle Comme des Garcons number on the left lends well to a full body, ruffled bend. And an attached hood is well played. The mishmash on the right is, natch, all by Karl Lagerfeld: we count a Fendi layered skirt, a Karl Lagerfeld Collection poplin blouse, and a smirking heave that makes good use of her arms. Well done, Emma. You are fabulous, tiny, and British, so we expect your compatriot to throw you on a Vogue cover sooner than later.

Boring Akimbo

The commercial Cameron Diaz grins across American Vogue this month in a rather unstylish white ensemble cinched with a leather belt. The Green Issue could have gone any number of ways so why flounder again, Anna, with this washed-out mess? Celebrate the environment with vibrancy, color and eccentricity!

American Vogue Akimbo // Lakshmi on Vacation!

With all the flurried discussion of the MET gala and models, AnA wishes to turn to a recurring topic here at the Akimbo loft: racism and tokenism as seen in American Vogue. This time around, let's consider the Faces of the Moment issue and the location story in Goa with model Lakshmi Menon, current runway star and Ricardo Tisci muse chez-Givenchy. Strangely titled "India Are We," the editorial has Lakshmi smiling and dancing in practical summer ensembles among India's impoverished; it should be called "India Is She."

The story lacks any clothes by Indian designers in favor of Anna's go-to European and American minions. So much for covering India's burgeoning fashion industry. Lakshmi has appeared one other time in American Vogue -- in a story about "new" models - although Lakshmi is in her late 20s and came West after a long career in India.

Landing a one-girl story is huge but did Anna pick Lakshmi because of her beauty and status or because Lakshmi is the only Indian model on her radar? Why not send a white girl to India? Why not book Lakshmi for a studio story stateside? AnA can report that various recent beauty and fashion shoots for Vogue -- including a MET-themed story shot by Arthur Elgort -- do not include Lakshmi, although she did attend the Ball. Hopefully Anna will keep using the girl. Until then let's enjoy her off-kilter face, masculine shoulders and large jaw in other ways!

In The News Akimbo // Vogue Cover

The May 2009 cover of American Vogue has a lineup of "The Faces Of The Moment." Love the return of models, all smiling with their eyes. If I see Sienna Miller or Renee Zellweger in this rag again I'll scream. Anyway, here is the main front followed by a shot of the other girls on the fold-out.

Very 60s, Bardot tossled hair here, and soft makeup to die for.

Surpises in the line-up include Lara Stone's presence and Chanel Iman's absence. It's very commercial pretty. I'm counting: 3 Brazilians, 2 Russians, one German, one Brit, one Pole and one Ethiopian. Nothing to write home about, but no American models for American Vogue?

A Portrait in Two Vogues

Beyoncé continues her quest to rule the free world, gracing not only American Vogue but it's saucy, Franca Sozzani-helmed cousin, Vogue Italia.

Now, class, this is an excellent opportunity to analyze the cultural and aesthetic differences that exist between the two couture monthlies. And there will be a test afterwards so pay attention.

First Vogue:



Nothing controversial or radical about it, just a wide-hipped diva surrounded by munchkins (p.s. those little brats are stealing your thunder, Mrs. Carter) reflecting the new culturally-inclusive image of America, baring a bit of back and asymmetrically akimbo-ing in Bottega Veneta.

The shoot seeks to appeal to a mature, if not necessarily older woman who may be able to purchase these clothes, but if she can't, she can always throw on a cocktail dress, recruit the neighborhood kids and feel like a star as her curiously effete son snaps away on the disposable.

Vogue sells its own fantasy of fashion and celebrity, it always has, it's just that the fantasy has been diluted to accomodate everyone, not just the gays. (Sigh.)

And then there's Vogue Italia:

Note the warm hues, the influence of Renaissance painting in B's posing and the blonde wig--for once not ripped off Etta James senile head--all suggesting fantasy, art and, most importantly, high fashion.

Whereas Vogue has become more a lifestyle mag, seemingly abandoning its high fashion credibility, Vogue Italia and the other Vogues around the world focus more intently on the clothes, which is probably why models don't grace the covers on this side of the pond.

Few people know Coco Rocha, but by now, everyone knows (and kind of hates, admit it) Beyoncé.

Sure it could be argues that La Wintour should put more effort in marketing models, but the 90s are over and celebrity sells. But as long as Vogue remains international and we have our single-letter, oversized bibles, we'll survive.

Wintour Akimbo // Revamping

With all the talk of the decline of American Vogue -- and rumors of Anna Wintour's departure from the masthead -- let's take a look at her attempts to mix up the content. First: more multi-girl editorials.

Yes, Vogue now has these two black girls -- Liya Kebede and Jourdan Dunn -- in the model rotation along with multiethnic teen Chanel Iman. A mighty group of three, they join Anna's go-to legion of Nordic blondes and chubby Brits. Anna still does not approve Asian models. Also not changed is the easy styling, which infrequently mixes different designers in favor of straight-from-the-runway looks, and the penchant for jumping and movement that Vogue photographers love. Here's a spread from the new April issue:

AnA loves metallics, leggings, skinny limbs and miming. A bit tired, no, because doesn't everyone do it? Remember any 90s editorials from American Vogue?

This 1992 editorial is listed under "epic": Steven Meisel, Marc Jacobs' legendary collection for Perry Ellis, grunge, supermodels, combat boots and hunches. It's sexy yet androgynous, glamorous and filthy. American Vogue definitely has the artistic goods to deliver to its readership. Whether Anna remains the editor who can make that happen is debatable.

Gorgeous Akimbo // Freida Pinto

Freida. As an actress you burst onto the scene with Slumdog Millionaire. At the Oscars we were exhilarated by your inspired choice of gown: Galliano. As an ingenue you've made quite a high-cheekboned debut. And now this, your first cover:Gracing Indian Vogue, wearing Louis Vuitton, and looking absolutely stunning, Pinto is the sort of young actress Hollywood needs; unlike the ones we're saddled with. Keep up the Glam, girl.

Occidental Comparisons

It's always fun to compare similar concepts in different magazines and then decide which succeeds overall creatively and intellectually. For example let's take American Vogue's "Adult Education" from a couple months ago and compare it with Korean Vogue's "Modern Classic" from the current September issue. Both feature adult, serious clothes on A-list girls in a studio for a great photographer.

Here's the American:

First of all, unless it's Irving Penn behind the camera then the girls are drenched in studio lighting. They look a bit washed out, and it's not helped with the coal eye makeup, which I actually like in theory. But a bunch of ladies in serious petticoat-layered dresses and velvets stomping and hopping around with dark makeup and tight buns? It's fun, and probably a roll-your-eyes moment at the aged concept of the dowdy business women, but there's nothing wrong with occasionally dropping the gimmicks and letting the clothes speak for themselves.

With that point taken, here's the Korean:

The clean makeup is gorgeous, the styling is simple yet layered and (I guess for this reason) energetic given it's all laces, wool and fur. Plus this girl can WORK. Han Jin has been a top girl for a few years, has walked every runway and proves that hopping and grimaces do not befit a lady. Look at the hands and the overall humor. The lighting is also somber blue, so the mood is consistent throughout.

I think both editorials are good but Korean Vogue is more refreshing and clean. It also looks younger, which is surprising considering what the two stories are about (read: heaviness). And American Vogue rarely uses Asian models? There are good Asian models! What is going on with the world?

How do you spell stunning? N-I-C-O-L-E!

Can we talk about how amazing Nicole Kidman looks for a woman married to some no-name country singer? I love how, even at her most pregnant, she's probably thinner than 80% of the models in the ads that take up 90% of Vogue. I knew from the moment I saw Nikki K. stomping toward the camera in the preview for this "Out of Africa"-like epic (co-starring the fagulous Hugh Jackman) with a sharp cobalt blue suit and a jaunty hat that she would garner a nomination for this role. What nomination? That remains to be seen, not unlike her baby bump. I swear, this anorexic baby is going to come out of the womb weighing 1 1/2 lbs. and have an addiction to botox. I can't wait.