Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Oscar // Line to Resort

One of the first resort shows this season was Oscar de la Renta, who wonders among the linear, the curvilinear, and amorphous shapes to create a collection heavily referential to Paris, berets and all.
AnA appreciates Chanel references, but Oscar nods a bit too overtly: Karl Lagerfeld studied the linear "dynamic" of clothing with his superb Fall 2007 Couture collection. Where Uncle Karl focused on lines and edges -- the trim along a seam, a ruffle along the bottom of a skirt -- Oscar updates Coco's era by opening shapes and volume.
The Oscar woman expects knee-length dresses and skirts with a formal feel, so how fun to see them done with bunches of fabric.
Stuffiness he avoids with transparency and graphics, but with a palette mostly in black and white, and only a few jolts of coral, orange, and purple, it was just a semi-joyous resort. Kids, isn't fun and vacation what resort season is all about?

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